Super Smash Bros. Melee Link

031006 Super Smash Bros. Melee Link (June 12, 2007)
from: Super Smash Bros. Melee video game / size: ± 19,5 cm

parts with fold lines (3,16 MB PDF file)
parts without fold lines (3,06 MB PDF file)
display stand (4,54 MB ZIP file)
instructions (3,34 MB ZIP file)

some extra help on Melee Link’s boot: 1

Google Photos

About ninjatoes

I love papercraft - so I made my own for you to download, print and build! ;o)

Posted on June 12, 2007, in Ocarina of Time (N64), The Legend of Zelda and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. 47 Comments.

  1. Hey there … it has been a while since I’ve done any papercraft models and I thought this was the perfect one to get back into it, I have previously dont your going merry (which looks awesome) and Auron … I am having a little trouble with this model … I have the legs and skirt built and I am onto the Toso, The only problem is the start of the arms … parts 58-59 ie. the shoulders arent as big as they seem in your pictures (looks as if a piece is missing?) and the parts that go inside the shoulders (62 and 63) dont seem to fit … I have been doing this model for about 6 hours and I love how it is looking :) Any help would be great

    • I’m happy to hear you’re enjoying your papercraft “Melee Link” so far, it’s possibly the most challenging and difficult paper models I made so far with so many tiny parts…!

      Part 58 glues into a ring, but part 59 doesn’t go all the way around! The side that you can’t see in the pictures in the instructions is open, and goes over the “shoulder hole” of the torso.

      Part 62 doesn’t glue to the open bottom of the arm, but further up inside the arm where it’s narrower (kind of along the edge between parts 58 and 59; the same for the other arm of course).

      They’re tricky parts to get in exactly the right place, so take your time and don’t worry if it’s not 100% perfect; these pieces just serve as a place to glue on the arms later on, so the most important thing is to make sure that the angle is so that the arms won’t be in an awkward position, and any imperfections in glueing parts 62 and 63 inside the shoulders won’t really be visible aftwards. ;o)

      It’s very difficult to try and explain how to assemble a papercraft model in words, so I hope you understand my description and get it to work on your papercraft Melee Link; have fun building!

  2. i guess it doesnt help that this is my first papercraft model lol, however i did manage to build the Stand, im sure i’ll figure this out, i just need to try a different approach.

  3. i have all the files, i printed everything correctly, but im struggling on the first boot, the step by step is just really bad, the pictures are so small you cant see anything, and they are of what its supposed to look like when done, not really a step by step image, this is insanely difficult but i dont think it needed to be This difficult. i was fortunate enough to get this far because of a youtube vid that had a speed up build of this model, but even it only shows so much. i wont give up, it looks amazing. but i feel like im really on my own here lol

    • I’m afraid that on my old models, the instructional pictures made with my old camera aren’t the best, no… :o( Sometimes it helps if you can zoom in and/or change the brightness, but Melee Link will still be a very challenging model where you need to examine all the parts and fold lines very closely and keep trying to find the right way to shape and glue them together.

      Haywan Chiu from the Papercraft Museum website double-sized my papercraft Melee Link when he built it:

      The parts are still the same of course, so maybe it will help only a little bit if the parts are a little bit bigger? I also know this website has a few extra pictures of when they built the model: but it’s probably still not a lot of help, sorry…

      I hope you will be able to finish it by trying and trying, but of course if it really starts to get frustrating, take a break for a while, and put the parts and printed sheets in a safe place so you can continue later on if you want to (if you just try to keep going when it’s getting really frustrating, it will only become a lot more frustrating very quickly… :o(

      • sorry man, i give up. 2 days and cant get passed the first boot. every attempt at this comes out completely different, i Highly recommend upgrading, making a walkthrough. Or something like a video or even some high quality pictures of all angles and an actual Step by Step.manual. .its a lovely craft, but as it stands, id be surprised if anyone was able to build it =(

        • Papercraft is supposed to be fun of course, and when you find it so difficult that it becomes really frustrating, you really don’t need to feel bad (especially not about a very challenging model like Melee Link!) that you dont want to go on with it of course! ;o)

          In the “hall of fame” you can find some examples of people that did build it, but they’re usually only “finished” pictures, so I don’t think it would be much help to show you how to build it unfortunately:

          (and on many other websites of course, like the two I mentioned before, because when people do manage to build it, they’re usually (and rightfully! ;o) very proud of it and want to show it off!)

          Even for very experienced papercrafters Melee Link is still *very* challenging, but I hope you don’t give up on papercraft completely, because you can find *lots* more paper models online nowadays, including many from the Zelda series if you’re a fan of the series! (but from lots of other games, movies and lots more too of course! ;o)

  4. the model is beautiful, but the tutorial is a Joke. the pictures couldn’t be any smaller, and there is no step by step instructions, just a pic of what its supposed to look like. kinda like a teacher showing you how to do a 2+2 problem, then giving you a calculus question and saying solve it.

    • The step-by-step instructions are in the ZIP-file you can download, so unlike the PDF instructions on most of my paper models, you have to unzip it first to see the instruction pictures…!

      It’s best not to print them (there are too many anyway! ;o) but to view them on the computer if you need them, so you can zoom in and/or change the brightness to make it a little easier to see.

      Make sure to check with the papercraft Melee Link version *with* lines that you didn’t miss any fold lines, and that you folded them the right way (up or down; again, look at it on the computer if you’re not sure, because on the printed version, it can be very hard to see the fold lines!)

      That way, you can “pre-shape” the parts to make it easier to glue them together; try fitting them together without glue first, to see if it looks like the pictures in the instructions. If everything is okay, you can apply some glue and glue them together, or if it’s not right, you can check to see if you shaped the part correctly or try a different way if it turns out you missed a fold line or maybe folded it the wrong way and still change it.

      The way the parts are arranged on the template is also an indication of how the parts should fit together: parts that are supposed to be glued together are usually right next to each other, and because there are so many parts, I also added a lot of black arrow guides to show you which part goes where (the small, grey arrows are only to show the directions of the fold lines!)

      I’m sorry I can’t really make it easier for you, Melee Link really probably is the most challenging paper model I made so far; just like with any papercraft model, you really need to take your time and have a lot of patience to study the parts and instructions and figure out how to shape and glue them all together, especially because Melee Link has so many and such small parts…!

  5. .PDO Pleeeeeeeeese!

    • Because I always do the last fixes and finishing touches to the final templates in Photoshop after the test builds, the templates can’t go back into Pepakura Designer after that of course, so my paper models are never released in PDO format, sorry!

      Melee Link is a very challenging paper model to build with lots of very small parts and folds.

      Even if you’re building the version with lines, the fold lines can sometimes be difficult to see on the printed version, so if you’re not sure if you may have missed any fold lines so the parts won’t fold the right way, check with the PDF file with lines (then you can zoom in and/or change the brightness of your screen to make sure you can see all the fold lines).

      On the templates there are also *lots* of directions, so take your time to understand what they all mean: it’s best if you can already imagine how you need to fold and glue the part in your head before you actually do it. ;o)

      And even then, if you’re not sure, try it without glue first: it’s a lot of work figuring out the parts that don’t seem to fit at first, but often you can only try it a few different ways, and one of them has to be the right one of course.

      Check with the pictures in the instructions to see if it looks the same, and of course if it fits the way you thought. If not, you can still change it, and if it does, you can apply some glue and glue it on of course.

      I’m sorry I can’t help you better than this, but I hope if you take your time working out how to shape and fold all the parts (maybe taking a break if all the small parts are becoming frustratingly difficult!) you’ll be able to build it! ;o)

  6. Good Job! You are really epic at making papercrafts. My favorite one is the Hero Of Twilight.

    • Thank you for the compliments, I’m glad you like my papercraft works! ;o) Melee Link is by far my most detailed and challenging model I think, with lots of small parts. Twilight Link is easier, but still has some tricky parts I guess (especially the hands), I really like it too!

  7. I made this,it was very very difficult!! But the higher the difficulty is, the more eager to work it out I am.So it was very very interesting!! Thank you very much!
    In fact,I made Ganondorf,too.So I made them face each other.The view is so coooool!
    And the every other model of yours is wonderful!

    I am Japanese,and I can’t speak English well.But I think I could tell you what I thought.
    Thankyou very much!

    • Hi there! Don’t worry, I can understand what you’re saying very well! ;o)

      Thank you for the compliments, I am happy to hear you liked building my papercraft SSBM Link!

      You’re right, it is one of the most difficult models on my site I think. So you must have had a lot of patience and determination to finish it!

      There are a lot of challenging papercraft models on the internet, so I think you can find a lot more paper models to keep you busy for a while if you want to! ;o)

      Have fun building!

  8. これ完成すれば大きさがどの位ですか

  9. Gonzaloveslara

    I would like to have a Lara Croft like this Zelda 0_0. It is so amazing, I love it!

  10. shadowkirby64

    ninjatoes, you are the best desingner ever! under any other desinger, you craft would be impossible, but you manage to make them easy every time!

    • Thanks for the big compliment! I always try to make my paper models easy and fun to build for others as well, although I think SSB:M Melee Link is actually one of my more challenging models!

      So if you find this one easy to make, I think it also has a lot to do with good building skills! ;o)

  11. I am getting the template tomorrow because my friend printed it up for me because I don’t have color printing and he dose

  12. I think someone already asked this but,
    Isn’t there a .Pdo file of your models? It would be less confusing to build this model(even with your arrows and lettered tabs its still looks confusing to me)
    If they do exist, why not publish them?

    • The main reason why I don’t release my models as *.pdo files, is because I really enjoy making the lay-outs in Photoshop after it has been unfolded! ;o)

      The other reasons are, that I also do the finishing touches on the model itself like small texture fixes and such in Photoshop after the model has been unfolded.

      And after my test build, I always have lots of small things to fix, and to save time, I usually only fix and re-unfold just those parts that need fixing. So you would get one main *.pdo file which isn’t really the final model, and then lots of smaller *.pdo files with just a thumb, an ear, the blade of a sword etc…

      But you shouldn’t be intimidated by all the letters and arrows on the template, because I always greatly overdo the instructions… ;o)

      Most people build 90% of a papercraft model without even looking at the instructions and only use them when they really get stuck. A lot of the time, when glue the parts together, it will naturally shape itself and it will become easier to see how it attaches to the other parts.

      Of course SSB:M Link is a very challenging model, so you will probably have to check the instructions a lot more often than usual… ;o) But don’t go printing out all those pictures, it’s better to look at them on your computer anyway so you can zoom in, adjust the brightness if needed etc…!!

      Build the parts as far as you can, and for the parts that confuse you, try pre-shaping them without glue, and hold them against the parts you already built to see if you can figure out how it attaches (the parts are usually laid out next to eachother).

      Well, those are some tips I can give you, but like I said, SSB:M Link is a lot more challenging than most other models, so maybe it’s a good idea to be close to a computer so you can check the PDF files and instructions whenever you need.

      Don’t try to rush build it and take a break as long as you want whenever you’re growing tired of it (it won’t be going anywhere ;o) and have fun building, and I’m sure you can do it!

      • hm, I understood.
        But anyways, how many g/m2(around it) the paper should be?
        I think I would need a bit thicker paper than I use(120)

        • Of course you should use the paper that you are comfortable to work with! ;o)

          For me, that’s 200 g/m2 paper; I use it on all my models and I’m very happy with the results.

          But other people feel that’s too thick for them, and they use 160 gsm, and sometimes people even use different thicknesses for different parts.

          If you always use 120 g/m2 and you like it, then I think you can certainly build SSB:M Link with that paper.

  13. AWESOME!!! i going to make this right away!:) also since this is a melee link why don’t you make a young link from melee? also how do you make your crafts with meta?

    • I want to make many more Zelda models, so maybe I will. ;o)

      I’ve been thinking about making a tutorial about how I make my paper models for a long time (ever since other people got inspired to make their own ones ;o)

      But I really need to work out what exactly I should talk about and what not, to prevent the “papercraft tutorial” from turning into a “Metasequoia” or “Pepakura tutorial”… ;o)

      The best way to learn how to use Metasequoia I think is just make a simple model (not necessarily for papercraft, just for study) from scratch (a cube, a cylinder, a sphere etc…) and then click all the buttons and all the menus at least once to figure out what it does to your 3D shapes and what you can do with them.

      That way you will quickly learn the basics, and that’s really all you need for papercraft purposes. ;o)

  14. i have a Question can you look for a prince of persia 3D data??????

    • I never looked into extracting the game models from the Prince of Persia games before, so I’m not sure if it can(‘t) be done.

      They’re pretty popular games, so perhaps a crazed, knowledgeable fan has picked apart the game files and created a tool to do so.

      Your best bet is to find fan based discussion forums; I’m sure somebody has had the idea to extract the 3D data from the games before and asked the same question as you did, so it’s likely the answer is somewhere out there on the internet! ;o)

      I’m afraid I don’t know where exactly though, sorry…! I hope you find what you’re looking for, good luck and have fun!

  15. thank You !!! Whats your name and where do You live

  16. when yyou have no time to make a prince of persia model then is it okay
    but with what programm do you make papercraft models?
    (I have make the Eagle sword and the lion sword:=)

  17. SSB:M Link is one of my toughest models I think, so I’m glad to hear you like it!

    I have many more ideas for future projects, and Prince of Persia is a nice game… ;o) But I can’t promise anything, because I’ll never have enough time to make all the paper models I’d like…

    There is one Prince of Persia papercraft model that I know of though, but it’s not a character, but the Eagle sword:

  18. Are you absolutely sure you downloaded the correct package from the official Metasequoia website? MetasequoiaLE R2.4 (4.05MB) FREEWARE

    It’s the bottom link of the first “DOWNLOAD”, right above the “OLD VERSIONS”.

    It’s the latest version of the free LE version. All the Metasequoia specific DLL files that are needed to run the program, are included in the ZIP-file, including mqrend.dll.

    After downloading the ZIP-file, let it automatically unpack everything in the same folder, and Metasequoia should automatically detect everything it needs.

  19. ok, just one more thing. I can’t email you because i forgot my email password, (so sad for me) and when I run the Metaseq.exe, it says the app has failed to start because MQREND.DLL was not found. What does that mean? Now, unless another problem arises, I’ll leave you alone. Until, I can let you see my Ozzy model.

  20. Controlling the size is a piece of cake, after you have unfolded the model in Pepakura Designer, you can set the exact size you want the model to be (2DPattern menu -> Scale up/down development by specifying size (or something like that ;o)

    Metasequoia is a very small and simple 3D app. You don’t even have to install it, you can just unpack it and run the executable (Metaseq.exe). The rest are just configuration files that remember your favourite settings and things like that and some *.dll files to make the program work. The rest are example models and textures, so you can see some of the things you can do with the program (you did download the MetasequoiaLE R2.4 (4.05MB) FREEWARE package, right? ;o)

    (btw, in the future it’s best to contact me through e-mail with questions like these, otherwise the comments here would quickly get out of control… ;o)

  21. Thanks, I will have fun, but I have one more question for you. How can you control the model’s size? I want my Ozzy model to be about the size of your Ganondorf.

    Also, the Metaseqoia freeware. When I downloaded it, it gave me this weird ZIP file with just pictures and other things. Is something wrong with it?

  22. what 3d app would you recommend, as long as its free. I have A LOT of free time on my hands. (that’s why i’m trying to do this instead of wating for you to)

    • I use Metasequoia myself, the LE edition is freeware, but of course it doesn’t have all the functions of the shareware version.

      SketchUp also has a free version, and it’s very easy to learn. Making advanced models is more difficult in SketchUp than in other 3D apps, though, *because* it’s so easy to use. ;o)

      Many people also use Blender, but there are really a lot of simple, free 3D apps out there.

      If you never used a 3D app before, you should browse and try around a bit, to see which one you like and can easily learn. That’s more important than the program having a lot of advanced options if you’re only going to use it to create 3D models to make into papercraft models. ;o)

      Good luck and have fun!

  23. How do you do this, I mean look at this model: it’s the most detailed thing i have ever seen! I was wondering how you design these models. Would it be easier to do it on actual people or video game characters? What programs do you use? Are they free? I have so many questions for you and it would be great if you answered them. (or at least most of them)

    PS: I had in mind designing Ozzy Osbourne, Ted Nugent, Joe Perry, and maybe for someone else (no one needs to know who she is) Hayley Williams. Tell me if I’m getting ahead of myself!!

    • My “digital” models are all made with the help of Pepakura Designer. There’s a shareware version which is free, but it won’t allow you to save or export your work (you *can* print your work with the shareware version).

      There are many freeware 3D applications that you can use to create a 3D model of Ozzy or edit an existing one to prepare it to be unfolded with Pepakura Designer.

      It requires a bit of logical thinking and planning, but most of the times it’s not really difficult to create a paper model using a 3D app and Pepakura Designer, it’s just really time consuming… ;o)

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