The Legend of Zelda Fierce Deity Link

059009 Fierce Deity Link (September 21, 2008)
from: The Legend of Zelda Majora’s Mask video game / size: ± 18,5 cm

parts (1,75 MB PDF file)
instructions (1,57 MB PDF file)

some extra help on Fierce Deity Link’s hair and cap: 123 | 4
some extra help on Fierce Deity Link’s right arm: 1

Google Photos

About ninjatoes

I love papercraft - so I made my own for you to download, print and build! :o)

Posted on September 21, 2008, in Majora's Mask (N64), The Legend of Zelda and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. 62 Comments.

  1. Can you make a youtube tutorial

    • Hello! I’m afraid making video tutorials would take too much time for me, sorry… I hope the pictures in the step-by-step instructions help, and if you’re having trouble, try looking at pictures of other people that might have built Fierce Deity Link and compare it with the part you’re trying to fold and glue. Make sure you didn’t forget any fold lines, and that you folded them the right way (up or down). Often the fold lines are difficult to see on the printed version, so use the PDF version as a reference (you can zoom in, change the brightness if needed etc). If you’re not sure, fold the part you think is right but don’t use any glue yet; that way you can try if the parts fits to the rest of the model you already built the way you thought, and if it doesn’t, you can usually see what the problem is that way and try again. ;o)

      I’m sorry that I can’t help you better, but I hope you will be able to understand the picture instructions. ;o) Take your time and have fun!

  2. How do You make the hair(part 32 and 34)and attach it to the head.

    • The trick is to carefully examine the fold lines to make sure you don’t fold them the wrong way;

      It can be difficult to see on the printed version, so zoom in on the PDF version to see which fold lines need to be folded up (valley fold: _._._) and which ones need to be folded down (mountain fold: —-)

      Once you have that sorted out, the parts should start shaping themselves: take note of the arrows on the template too, that give some indication of how the parts should be folded in on themselves.

      I also made a little schematic on which glueing flaps should be glued where, you can see it here (see the numbered linsk next to “some extra help on Fierce Deity Link’s hair and cap:” in the download post):

      The hair is always difficult, because there are often a lot of folds and the shapes can be quite intricate. It’s difficult to explain in words, but hopefully with some careful examination of the fold lines on the parts and the pictures in the instructions and some trial and error, you’ll be able to do it! ;o)

      Take your time and have fun! (and don’t forget it’s better to take a break and try again later when you’ve been trying for hours already, sometimes with a fresh mind it suddenly makes sense ;o)

  3. Hi, um I dunno if anyone has asked this yet. But do you have just a file of the sword? I know it’s a weird question but my buddy was wanting one and I’m not computer savvy enough to know how to re-size, let alone make, just the sword and wanted to make it somewhat life sized. I have practice with Pepakura Viewer 3 and have made Squall’s Gunblade, which is insanely awesome oh my dear Shiva, and am currently working on KH2 Auron’s Masamune. And thought this one looked awesome and wanted to try it, lined or lineless or even a pdf it doesn’t matter to me. I’m eventually going to make several Papercraft Keyblades all life size for a roughly 5’7” person and well, why not a Zelda blade since I’m going to be making the Buster Sword as well. If you can’t that’s fine, I just thought I might as well give it a shot in the dark. Thanks for taking the time to read this.

    • Programs like Photoshop or Gimp can open PDF files, so you can edit them as normal image files, cutting and pasting the parts for the sword (only 3 parts ;o) to a new file.

      I’ll send a JPG file of the 3 parts for the sword to your e-mail, so you don’t have to install a program just for that (it’s great if you teach yourself some basic skills with programs like those though, it’s fun to fool around with ;o)

      Scaling it up you will need to do yourself though: like I said, you can see the sheet with the parts as a normal image file, so it’s easy to scale up.

      Because the sword is relatively small though (about 22 cm or 8.7 inches), and for a lifesize version it will need to be very big (it’s bigger than Oni Link himself, so I guess it’s at least 10 times bigger…!)

      So you will need many separate sheets of paper, and the result will be quite fuzzy. But it’s really just two spirals and a simple hilt/grip, so with some creativity, you can easily fix it up a bit. ;o)

      Have fun on your project!

  4. help me i need help attaching the front of part 11

    • To glue on part 11, first glue together the two legs as shown in step 14 of the instructions and as indicated by the arrows between parts 7 and 9.

      Now score and fold all the fold lines on part 11: make sure you don’t forget any! (if you look at the PDF file, you can see all the fold lines much more clearly than on the printed version).

      I found it easiest to start at the front (what is basically Link’s groin): the small triangle part at the bottom of part 11 on the template should be glued between the two links at the front (take your time to properly glue the glueing legs to the inside of the legs).

      Then you can fold back the pentagonal part of part 11: this will become the “top” of the legs. If you look closely at step 15 in the instructions, you should be able to recognize the small triangular part and the pentagonal part of part 11 that are glued to the legs.

      Now step 16 shouldn’t be too difficult anymore: you simply have to glue the rest of part 11 (Link’s buttocks) to the back of the legs. The glueing tab that’s just below the part number 11., should be glued to the opposite edge on the same part.

      It sounds a bit difficult in words, but if you try it without glue first and look carefully at the instructions, I’m sure you can do it! ;o)

  5. Dude this papercrafts is sweet. Do you think you could make another version of this but as normal link?

    • I would definitely like to make a (regular) adult Link from Ocarina of Time some day, but I don’t think I will put him in the exact same position as this one.

  6. Dude your papercrafts rock. Do you think it possible in the near future you could make a skull kid with mask Papercraft? That would be epic

    • I’m afraid I can’t promise I will get around to it in the near future, but a Majora’s Mask Skull Kid is definately on my to do-list!

      For the near future though, maybe you will like this one that can be found on, but be sure to read all the remarks!

  7. ninjatoes, I was wondering if you had your original .pdo’s available. I’m interested in making a bigger version of this model. Do you have them available so I could resize the model for myself?

    • Beacause I always find things to fix after test building, instead of re-doing the entire model over and over again, I only fix the parts that need fixing, and then cut and paste all the good parts together in Photoshop. So there simply aren’t any finished Pepakura files available of my models, only the PDF files that you see here.

      If you want to enlarge this model, you can open it in Photoshop or Gimp and then treat it just like any other image file. I don’t know how big you want to make it, but don’t worry if the parts become too big to fit on one sheet: you can simply glue them back together again after printing of course. ;o)

      Good luck and have fun!

  8. lol, looks like a jedi with that pose :P

  9. i need help attatching the boots to his legs please HELP

    • I’m afraid all the help I can really offer on that is already in the instructions…!

      Build one part at a a time, and make sure you folded everything right (valley fold where you need to valley fold, and mountain fold where you need to mountain fold). Glue together each individual part first like I do in the instructions before glueing it on.

      Another good tip I think if you’re not sure if you’re doing it right or not, is to try out the parts without glue first: fold and pre-shape them the way you think they should be glued together, and see if it looks similar to the pictures in the instructions and if it fits with the other parts. And then if it does, glue it on! (and if it doesn’t, try a different way, there are only so many ways you can fold a part using the same fold lines ;o)

      I hope you can do it, good luck and have fun!

  10. spartanhayabusaπmkιι

    why ninjatoes what kind of name is that?!?

  11. the schematics helped a lot THANX!

  12. Is there parts with no lines? thank you

    • No, for my newest models, I only made one version with coloured folding lines, so they will be less apparant after building.

      Although it might look like the lines will be very visible if you look at just the digital PDF file, they will become a lot less visible when printed.

      It does depend on the your print settings of course, but most people can barely see the lines on the printed version at all, and have to refer to the PDF to see where they need to fold for most lines.

      So I hope it will be the same for you, and that the lines turn out barely visible on the printed version too!

      Have fun building!

  13. Im having trouble assembling part 32 how do i put the “flaps” with the arrows to the place it says the flap at the top goes next to the other arrowed flap on the opposite side i don’t get it help me Ninjatoes!

    • I made a little schematic where I assigned letters to the most important “polygons” and colours to the most important edges in the 2D template, and a 3D view that will hopefully help you figure out how to assemble part 32:

      Sorry about the hair colour, I had to use a different texture. But maybe it’s better this way, because Oni Link’s white hair also makes the right shapes hard to see, in the pictures anyway. ;o)

      You will see that the glueing tabs you’re referring to, make up a thin pyramid shaped “spike” of hair, kinda like part 31, only more oblong. I think you’re having trouble understanding it, because this time, the spike is attached to another part (whereas part 31 was a seperate part, so it is easier to understand what you have to with it I think ;o)

      Don’t forget that some fold lines have to be valleyfolded ( – . – . – . – ) and others have to be mountainfolded ( ——— , zoom in on the PDF if you’re having trouble distinguishing them). Getting the folds right, will help you pre-shape the part properly, so you can test to see if you got it right without glue first.

      I hope this helps, good luck and have fun building!

      greetz ninjatoes

  14. can you glue the pieces to cardboard first

    • Of course you can, but what do you mean exactly by cardboard? Most people use the term “cardboard” for those big (brown) moving boxes, but that kind really is very thick (usually at least a couple of millimeters) and that really is a bit *too* thick to fold properly.

      So if you want to use that kind to strengthen the model by glueing it to the backside of all the pieces, it will become very difficult to build the model, because it wasn’t meant to be made with such thick paper/cardboard…

      If you only want to strengthen the model because you only have thinner, regular printer paper, I wouldn’t use such thick cardboard. The best thing would be to find thicker paper I think. If you really can’t find it or it’s too expensive, people sometimes glue two thin sheets together to create a “thicker sheet”. But you need good glue for that (so the two sheets won’t come apart, and if the glue dries very hard, it might be difficult to fold the parts) and you have to be careful to cover the *entire* sheet with glue and not to miss a spot (because obviously that part won’t be glued together then ;o)

      But if you mean to glue the cardboard just inside the boots to make them heavier because you’re afraid Oni Link will fall over, then I don’t really know if it will be heavy enough…

      It depends on how you build your model; for some people, it doesn’t fall over at all, and for some people, only a little, and for some people a lot… If your build will fall over just a little, it might be enough, but if it will be a lot, the small piece of cardboard you glue inside the boot might not be heavy enough.

      If that’s what you meant, then I would try the heaviest cardboard you can find (preferably not the “corrugated” kind with the “flutes” inside, but a denser one) and maybe use several layers on top of eachother until you really feel the boot is getting heavier.

      It’s tricky, because you can’t tell beforehand if it will be enough. If it turns out you didn’t need to, it’s never bad of course, but if you put in too little and your model still falls over, you have to open up the boots again, so maybe you can try leaving the soles open until your model is completely finished so you can work out exactly how much weight you need.

      I hope I understood you right, so I hope this helps!

  15. N.I.N.J.A.T.O.E.S. A.R.E. Y.O.U. A.B.L.E. T.O. M.A.K.E. J.U.S.T. P.L.A.I.N. A.D.U.L.T….PROCESSING…L.I.N.K.

  16. spongebob says says says says says

    heeeeeyyyyyy… ninjatoes……… do you convert pdf. files into other types of image files

    • Some image editors like Photoshop can open the pages of a PDF files as images, at which point you can save them to any format you’d like.

      For some free image editors, there are plugins that will allow you to do the same.

      The “difficult” way would be to use Adobe Reader’s “Snapshot” tool (the one that looks like a camera with a dotted box drawn around it).

      Select the Snapshot tool, then click+drag a rectangle around the part of the page you want and it will automatically be copied to your (virtual) clipboard. Now you can open up any image editor, and paste (Ctrl+V) the portion you just copied. Don’t change the scale in between copying if you use this method! ;o)

  17. i was just wondering why dont you have young link posted

    • I have, but the Zelda section only shows 10 models per page, so you have to click “Older entries” at the top or bottom to view my earlier models. ;o)

      You can find the parts and instructions for young Link here: Link

  18. yo wassup ninjatoes i cant open the instructions or parts to F.D.L.

    it just comes up with a blank page called oni link parts.pdf

    is it just because i have an old computer or WHAT!?!

    • The parts and instructions for many of my paper models are in Portable Document Format (PDF).

      You will need to install a PDF Reader (like the free Adobe Acrobat Reader) to be able to view the documents. You can then save them to your hard disk, or open them in your browser.

      I hope this helps, have fun building!

  19. So you’re saying i assemble part 17?????If I have to i can’t!!!!! there are two tabs to it’ll be uneven …


  20. Thx ninjatoes, but i assembled all of the legs now. But now im stuck on the torso all through step 24-39. I mean on step 25 am i supposed to assemble part 17????? And if i have to how?????????? IM A MESS HELP ME NINJATOES!!!!!!! =[


    • The first thing you should do after cutting out the part (any part) is pre-shape it: there are several fold lines that you need to fold.

      If you do so, it’s often easier already to see how the part connects to the other parts.

      Also don’t forget that I usually try to place the parts together on the templates the way you should glye them together: if you look at part 17, you will see that the top glueing tab connects to part 16, and that the bottom glueing tab of part 16 connects to part 17.

      Then, if you look at the instructions, you can see the shape of part 16 in step 24, and in step 25 how part 17 is glued on and how the glueing tabs on both sides are “pulled” back: they don’t connect to anything yet.

      They will connect to the body in step 33. If you’re stuck, try to look at the steps later on, to see if they can help you figure out what the part looks like in a later stage and maybe from a different angle.

      And don’t forget: if you’re not sure, try without glue first, and don’t be too scared to try it out the way you think it should be put together: even if it turns out you were wrong, tehn you will eliminated one possibility.

      And in the end, the right one, how implausible it may seem, will remain. ;o)

      Good luck and have fun!

  21. Its me from im making one for my friend and i forgot how to glue the knees together plz help and i hav problems assembling the legs!!!!!!!!!

    • The easiest way to make Oni Link’s legs, is to start by scoring all the fold lines on part 7 (use the PDF file as a reference if you can’t see them clear enough on the printed version). Then glue the long glueing tab on the right edge to the edge where the part number 7 is, creating a crude cylinder for the leg like you see in step 10 of the instructions.

      For the knee (part 8) you shouldn’t fool yourself by thinking it needs to be a “closed” part! ;o) As you an see in step 11 of the instructions, you only need to shape and glue the top part, and the two “triangular” sides don’t connect yet!

      You need to glue them to part 7 as you can see in step 12 of the instructions. The way they are arranged on the template tells you which glueing tab goes where, but if you’re not sure, you can try without glue first to see if it fits the way you thought.

      The other leg goes together pretty much the same way, and to glue them together at Oni Link’s “crotch area”, you can use the two arrows on the template, which show you where the two glueing tabs of parts 7 and 9 should be glued, and of course the further steps in the instructions.

      It’s difficult to explain in words of course, but I hope with the parts in front of you, you can figure it out. If you’re not sure, try it without glue first, so you can always try a different way if it doesn’t work. ;o)

      Have fun building!

  22. i finished fd link it looks sweet, you can see it on youtube.

  23. Im almost done with FD Link its turning out great for my first time i wouldnt got this far if you didnt tell me how to glue the legs and piece 11 together thx very much!

  24. Thanks ninjatoes for your help that e-mail you sent to me was helpful( 4 THE HELP![but 1 more question what is easier zora armor link or fierce diety?]

    • That’s actually a difficult call; I think ZaL is made up of simpler shapes that are much more intuitive to build, whereas sometimes on FD Link, you might need to check with the instructions much more often to see which way you need to fold a certain part.

      But then again, many people find the fingers like the ones ZaL has very difficult to build because of their size…

      But still, because ZaL is made up out of such simple shapes, I think it’s the easier one to build!

  25. I cant get past glueing his legs together can someone help me by sending a video to my email.( just cant figure out what flaps go where, and why do the legs turn out looking fat when you assemble them?

    • What parts exactly are you having problems with?

      I tried to arrange most parts on the sheets the way they should be glued together, so that is often a good indication. The instructions should also help of course.

      After glueing together the legs and knees, follow the two arrows on the templates to glue the two legs together. After that, pre-shape part 11 (score and fold the fold lines, but don’t glue anything together yet).

      Then start at the front (the bottom of part 11 as it is on the sheet) like in step 15 of teh instructions, and then the back like in step 16.

      It’s hard to explain in words, but I hope it helps you figure it out, it’s probably simpler than you imagine right now. ;o) Try it without glue first, until you know you got it right. Good luck and have fun!

      (oh, and Oni Link’s legs are so fat because he’s so well trained! ;o)

  26. I just finished constructing this model; it took a while, but was well worth it. :)

    It stood on its own on the first try as well, which I was pretty glad about. Great model!

  27. I downloaded the parts a few days ago and i messed up on one of the folds and when i tried to download it again it said i couldn’t because its been moved somewhere else

  28. I saw on a web that i don’t rememb that you put weights on the feets of the fierce deity link for stand it

    • I managed to get my own FD Link standing without having to put weight in his boots by adjusting his legs after I built it.

      If you can get him to stand without problems, don’t change it of course! ;o) Otherwise you can choose between putting some weight in his boots (people seem to use anything from a couple of pennies to Play-Doh ;o) or you can glue him to a stand.

  29. It can be a bit difficult to make Fierce Deity Link stand on its own because of the huge sword he’s holding.

    If you can’t get it to work, the best thing to do is glue him on top of a nice stand, or put some weight in his boots.

    Have fun building!

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