The Legend of Zelda Fierce Deity Link

059009 Fierce Deity Link (21-09-2008)
from: The Legend of Zelda Majora’s Mask video game / size: ± 18,5 cm

parts (1,75 MB PDF file)
instructions (1,57 MB PDF file)

some extra help on Fierce Deity Link’s hair and cap: 123 | 4
some extra help on Fierce Deity Link’s right arm: 1

Google Photos



    • The trick is to carefully examine the fold lines to make sure you don’t fold them the wrong way;

      It can be difficult to see on the printed version, so zoom in on the PDF version to see which fold lines need to be folded up (valley fold: _._._) and which ones need to be folded down (mountain fold: —-)

      Once you have that sorted out, the parts should start shaping themselves: take note of the arrows on the template too, that give some indication of how the parts should be folded in on themselves.

      I also made a little schematic on which glueing flaps should be glued where, you can see it here (see the numbered linsk next to “some extra help on Fierce Deity Link’s hair and cap:” in the download post):

      The hair is always difficult, because there are often a lot of folds and the shapes can be quite intricate. It’s difficult to explain in words, but hopefully with some careful examination of the fold lines on the parts and the pictures in the instructions and some trial and error, you’ll be able to do it! ;o)

      Take your time and have fun! (and don’t forget it’s better to take a break and try again later when you’ve been trying for hours already, sometimes with a fresh mind it suddenly makes sense ;o)

  1. Hi, um I dunno if anyone has asked this yet. But do you have just a file of the sword? I know it’s a weird question but my buddy was wanting one and I’m not computer savvy enough to know how to re-size, let alone make, just the sword and wanted to make it somewhat life sized. I have practice with Pepakura Viewer 3 and have made Squall’s Gunblade, which is insanely awesome oh my dear Shiva, and am currently working on KH2 Auron’s Masamune. And thought this one looked awesome and wanted to try it, lined or lineless or even a pdf it doesn’t matter to me. I’m eventually going to make several Papercraft Keyblades all life size for a roughly 5’7” person and well, why not a Zelda blade since I’m going to be making the Buster Sword as well. If you can’t that’s fine, I just thought I might as well give it a shot in the dark. Thanks for taking the time to read this.

    • Programs like Photoshop or Gimp can open PDF files, so you can edit them as normal image files, cutting and pasting the parts for the sword (only 3 parts ;o) to a new file.

      I’ll send a JPG file of the 3 parts for the sword to your e-mail, so you don’t have to install a program just for that (it’s great if you teach yourself some basic skills with programs like those though, it’s fun to fool around with ;o)

      Scaling it up you will need to do yourself though: like I said, you can see the sheet with the parts as a normal image file, so it’s easy to scale up.

      Because the sword is relatively small though (about 22 cm or 8.7 inches), and for a lifesize version it will need to be very big (it’s bigger than Oni Link himself, so I guess it’s at least 10 times bigger…!)

      So you will need many separate sheets of paper, and the result will be quite fuzzy. But it’s really just two spirals and a simple hilt/grip, so with some creativity, you can easily fix it up a bit. ;o)

      Have fun on your project!

    • To glue on part 11, first glue together the two legs as shown in step 14 of the instructions and as indicated by the arrows between parts 7 and 9.

      Now score and fold all the fold lines on part 11: make sure you don’t forget any! (if you look at the PDF file, you can see all the fold lines much more clearly than on the printed version).

      I found it easiest to start at the front (what is basically Link’s groin): the small triangle part at the bottom of part 11 on the template should be glued between the two links at the front (take your time to properly glue the glueing legs to the inside of the legs).

      Then you can fold back the pentagonal part of part 11: this will become the “top” of the legs. If you look closely at step 15 in the instructions, you should be able to recognize the small triangular part and the pentagonal part of part 11 that are glued to the legs.

      Now step 16 shouldn’t be too difficult anymore: you simply have to glue the rest of part 11 (Link’s buttocks) to the back of the legs. The glueing tab that’s just below the part number 11., should be glued to the opposite edge on the same part.

      It sounds a bit difficult in words, but if you try it without glue first and look carefully at the instructions, I’m sure you can do it! ;o)

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