LEGO Kapitein Knoest (Captain Redbeard)

101001 LEGO Kapitein Knoest (Captain Redbeard) (March 11, 2011)
from: LEGO Pirates theme / size: ± 28,5 cm

Download:
parts (4,07 MB PDF file)
instructions (2,47 MB PDF file)

Pictures:
Google Photos

About ninjatoes

I love papercraft - so I made my own for you to download, print and build! ;o)

Posted on March 11, 2011, in LEGO, Pirates and tagged , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. 40 Comments.

  1. Hi,

    If I use some paper 210 gsm to realize the lego pirate, is it too thick either it will go?
    Thank you

    • I used 200 gsm paper, and other people used other thicknesses and they managed too, so I think it will be okay. ;o)

      One thing you might have to watch out for, is that the separate pieces like the arms have round “pegs”/cylinders that you have to push into round holes on the torso, so make sure those holes are large enough for the “pegs” (or that the “pegs” are small enough to fit inside the holes. ;o)

      With 200 gsm paper it was a tight fit, so with 210 gsm it will be an even tighter fit, and it also depends on how accurate you build the paper pirate of course: you can adjust it a little bit when building the parts if you need it one or two mm larger or smaller.

      Take your time to get everything to fit correctly, and have fun building!

  2. okay. thank you so much. I will try it on :D

  3. you made a model with A4 paper, right? how tall it is? can i make a model with A5? is that too hard? :-<

    • Yes, I used A4 paper to build my papercraft Captain Redbeard; with his hat, he is about 28 cm (about 11 inches) standing up.

      Of course it should be possible to build him with A5 paper, then all the parts will be about 1.42 times smaller.

      Whether that makes it *too* small to build, I don’t know of course: that really depends on the person who builds it (some people can build *really* small paper models! ;o) but normally if the parts are smaller, it’s usually a little bit more difficult, yes.

      The trickest parts are the hands and epaulettes (the brown thing around his neck) I think, so if you want to try it, make sure to take your time and fold and pre-shape those parts properly to make it easier! (but you should always take your time and fold and pre-shape all the parts properly of course really… ;o)

      Also, because my papercraft minifigs are supposed to come apart and be put back together just like real LEGO minifigs (with the arms, legs, head and everything, the parts need to be strong enough so they won’t warp or crush, so it’s best to use paper that’s a bit thicker than regular printer paper (like 2 – 2.5 times thicker, which is about 160-200 gsm (grams per square meter); regular printer paper is usually about 75-80 gsm).

      I hope I have given you a few pointers so you can decide if you want to try it, have fun if you do! ;o)

  4. omg too much hard part

    • Most parts are just simple boxes or cylinders and the parts are of a nice size, so it’s really not that hard at all; if you take your time to pre-shape all the parts properly, I’m sure you can build even the more difficult parts! ;o)

  5. This is awesome!!!!! nice job

  6. hey ninjatoes! i love ur papercraft! juz checking i noe u use 200gsm paper but how do u get the sorta glossy(more like matte) finish? i use a4 art block…so….will it work? and….well if not then wat shld i use? and is it really hard? im juz an ammateur but i wanna make this!
    Thnks!

    • I never use glossy paper or anything, actually; just regular paper, only thicker. ;o)

      For printing, I always use an inkjet printer, on the highest print setting. It uses more ink, but the colours are “fuller”.

      Some people use a laser printer, which often makes the print a bit shinier, but sometimes the toner cracks when you try to bend/fold the parts…

      Some people do use glossy paper or even photopaper for a shiny finish.

      You can also use a varnish/glazing spray to protect against UV, dust and light water drips and to give your model a shiny finish, but I’d advise trying it out on a “scrap” model first, to try out how much you should spray on.

      Which paper to use is really just a personal preference. You can try out a few parts first, to see if the paper you have is easy to work with, and to see how it looks.

      Papercraft isn’t really hard, but it can be time consuming! ;o) Captain Redbeard does have some tricky pieces, so it’s important to score and fold all the parts properly, and to pre-shape them into the shape they need to be to make it easier to glue them together.

      If you’re not sure about how to glue on a certain piece, try folding and fitting the parts together without glue first, until you’re sure you got it right.

      Yamaha has a nice video tutorial about basic papercraft techniques (link) which is worth checking out. For pre-shaping small parts, you can use tools like a toothpick or whatever you might have handy.

      The most important part is to take your time and have fun building! ;o)

  7. So I’ve finally got time to attempt this build, but I’m having trouble printing out the parts. The pdf says its pages are 8.27×11.69 inches, and my computer just doesn’t want to scale it enough to fit to 8.5×11. Any suggestions?

    • I made the original sheets on standardized ISO A4 paper (which is 210 mm x 297 mm, or 8.27 inches x 11.69 inches).

      This is a little bit taller than US letter sized paper, so you will need to tell Adobe Reader (or any other PDF reader you might be using) to shrink the sheets to fit the printable area.

      Adobe Reader has a “Fit to printable area” option under “Page scaling” in the Print dialog box (link) and other PDF readers should have similar options.

      This will automatically scale all the pages down proportionally to the same size. When printed on A4 (due to printer margins) my printer prints the sheets at 97%, on US letter that will be about 94%.

      So your final model will be a little bit smaller, but as long as you make sure all the pages are scaled the same amount (the PDF reader should do this automatically) to fit US letter paper, all the parts will still fit together like they should.

      I hope this helps, have fun building!

  8. This is FANTASTIC! I’m only half way done right now… (Top half, legs are in the works) but I’m LOVING it. I’ll be posting him on my youtube ppc vids when I’m done if that’s okay with you. Link to my main page is in the website field.
    One thing I’m differing from in the directions however, is to glue the parts that ‘insert’ the longer tabs inside FIRST, so I can glue those tabs inside in place before sealing up the other part. Working well for durability for me so far. Just a suggestion.
    Also, Captain Redbeard will be needing his trusty Parrot side kick… any plans for him in the works? : D
    Or the infamous lego skeleton! lol.
    Great job on this… you’ve really outdone yourself!

    • To quote a certain other famous pirate: the instructions are really “more what you’d call ‘guidelines’, than actual rules…” ;o)

      The instructions are based on my own build, so I simply tell people the order I used myself, because I can be sure it should work that way.

      But most papercrafters have their own ways of doing things, and if you have a good idea to do some things a bit differently, it’s definately worth it to give it a try!

      And of course, you’re more than welcome to make a video of your papercraft Redbeard: you’re the one that built it! ;o)

      If you want to, I could also put it in the hall of fame (but you might have to remind me again about it when it’s done…)

      I am definately planning to make more paper minifig-ish models in the future. Not just pirates, although I’ve always loved the colours on the parrot too. And Spinoza the monkey would be a lot of fun to make too I think!

      There are a lot of minifigs that I’d still love to paperfy in the future, but I’m afraid I can’t really promise you when I’ll get around to it, because I have so many other ideas as well…

      But when I finally do, you’ll find them right here on my papercraft webpage to download and build, of course! ;o)

      Have fun building!

      • LOLOLOL!!! Perfect interjection of that quote if I’ve EVER seen one! LOL!
        Oh yea… the monkey… that’d be cool too! I don’t think I ever knew his name. Cute!
        Thanks! I’ll post a link to the template here too. I always try to link to the original template.
        Have a fantastic weekend!

        • Thank you, this weekend was Queen’s Day in the Netherlands, so it was a wonderful day yesterday! ;o)

          I hope you’re having a great weekend too!

  9. Nice

  10. This is truly one of the coolest things I’ve seen! I can’t wait to try this out with my kids. Thanks for creating it and posting it for free!

  11. Congratulations!

    Thanks for such a nice job. Excellent result!

    The templates are amazing and the instructions are incredible.

    It’s admirable work and effort you’ve put so much into the model as the material for its development.

    • Thank you for the compliments! It did take a long time to finish, but I enjoyed it and because I’m very happy with the result, it was worth it! ;o)

  12. At the end we already have here, I followed the whole process and could not wait to see the full model, great job.

  13. A question about the instructions: When you insert the different-shaped gluing tabs of one part into the slits of another part (ex. attaching part 5+6 to the head in step 7) they remain unfolded, right? And what’s the best way to glue them in place?

    • Yes, you’re exactly right: the “different shaped glueing tabs” (I couldn’t think of a shorter description… ;o) should not be scored/folded, so they remain stiff.

      That way, when you push them through the slits, they automatically make the cylinders etc. the right size and shape, and they are always in the correct position.

      The parts themselves are mostly glued together by the other glueing tabs, but usually I also put a big drop of glue on the inside bottom edge of the glueing tab, so that when you push it into the slit, the glue gets wiped between the slit and the glueing tab a bit.

  14. Great job, as always! All the time and effort you put in definitely paid off.

  15. Amazing job and great intrusions. Havn’t built it but just from looking at it looks great. Just wondering do you use Pepakura for unfolding?

    • Yes, I still use Pepakura Designer to unfold my computer-made models.

      I also do a lot of work on the templates afterwards in Photoshop, though, like improving the textures or fixing some small mistakes.

      And of course adding the part numbers, info and sometimes some extra directions. Most of that is just for fun, though. ;o)

      • Great work:) Just wondering if u used it and why you don’t include the pdo(s). I’m a pdo guy myself lol.

        • I think Pepakura Designer is a great tool, it’s very easy to use and I love using it!

          I just like fooling around with Photoshop, and it allows me to copy/paste the fixed parts from several different and *.pdo files together so I don’t have to redo the entire model. And like I said, some things are just easier to fix in Photoshop! ;o)

  16. wow,so delicious!
    good job, dude! it’s awesome work!
    Let’s do it again and again untill never end to explore creativity with papercraft!!!

    • Haha yeah, you can really make just about anything with papercraft, often the only limitation is the time it takes because it’s just a hobby… ;o)

  17. Please make more of this minifig, this is beyond awesome!

  1. Pingback: Pirata Lego | Plataforma de diseños en Papel para Descargar Gratis, compartir e imprimir. Freebies Cool, Chic y Vintage para Niños y Mayores.

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