The Legend of Zelda adult Link

128020 The Legend of Zelda adult Link (November 10, 2012)
from: The Legend of Zelda Ocarina of Time video game / size: ± 24 cm

Download:
parts (2,16 MB PDF file)
instructions (1,90 MB PDF file)

Pictures:
Google Photos

About ninjatoes

I love papercraft - so I made my own for you to download, print and build! ;o)

Posted on November 10, 2012, in Ocarina of Time (N64), The Legend of Zelda and tagged , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. 40 Comments.

  1. me ayudan en la parte de la espada part 51 anda part 52 no se pueden pegar ayudenme si

    • It’s very difficult to explain how to assemble a papercraft in words, but I hope I can explain it a bit to you…

      Parts 51 and 52 are the hilt of the Master Sword: part 51 is the top piece, that goes “horizontal” and part 52 is the bottom part that makes the sides/bottom.

      So maybe it’s easiest if you assemble part 52 first; it has quite a few folds, so make sure you score and fold them all and don’t forget any! Check with the PDF file because it’s difficult to see on the printed versions sometimes. Almost all of them are mountain folds, only the one in the middle is a valley fold.

      Once you folded part 52, look closely at the arrows on the template. If you follow them correctly, the part will find the correct shape as the bottom part of the hilt: it’s a symmetrical piece, with the valley fold in the middle, and two “wings” with an open top on either side.

      Besides the pictures in the instructions, I think it will also help if you look closely at the pictures from the finished papercraft, so you can see what the sword and the hilt will look like when they’re finished: https://goo.gl/photos/A7TKzN46F3oNAmhU9

      I’m sorry that I can’t help you better than this, I hope that you can figure it with a few tries: try folding the part and shaping it without glue first so you can see if it looks like it does in the pictures and the two parts fit together, so you know it’s correct. I hope this helps!

  2. is there a tool to use before printing that requires no download?

    • I don’t know if there’s a free online tool that will let you edit PDF files, but maybe there’s a different way: with an online PDF to BMP converter like http://www.zamzar.com/convert/pdf-to-bmp/, you can upload the PDF parts of adult Link, and have the parts sheets converted to BMP files.

      With Zamzar, the download link will be sent to you by e-mail, be sure to check the Spam folder of your e-mail too because maybe Zamzar’s mail will end up there! I could only do a quick search of course but if you search around some mroe you can find other ones too.

      BMP files are very basic image files that many programs can open, you can even use Microsoft Paint which is installed on Windows computers, or similar simple programs for other operating systems, and then you can “trace” the fold lines with the line tool of MS Paint (or similar tools for similar programs).

      You could even import the BMP images into a Microsoft Office Word file (or similar word processor software) and use the “shape” tools.

      I’m sure you already have some software like that on your computer, so you don’t have to download anything new if you get the PDF files converted to BMP files. If you keep having trouble or if you’re not confident, try asking a family member or a friend to help you, I’m sure you know somebody who can use simple programs like MS Paint! ;o)

  3. could I request a craft?

    • I’m afraid that I already have so many ideas that I’d like to make, and so little time to work on papercraft, that I already can’t promise people exactly which paper models I will make in the future, or when, and so I also can’t take specific requests, sorry…!

  4. could you make the version of young link from ocarina of time

    • I’m a big Zelda fan, so chances are very big that I will make many more papercraft versions of Link from the series. ;o) But because papercraft is only a hobby of mine that I can only do in my scarce spare time, I really can’t promise exactly which models I will make, or when, sorry…!

  5. ive printed this 3 times and I couldn’t see the lines in any of them.

  6. if that’s possible, please let me know, because ive wanted to make this and ive printed it 3 tims, and I still couldn’t see the lines

  7. Is there a Lineless version of this?

    • No, there’s only this version with the colour of the fold lines “blended in” with the colour of the parts.

      When there was only Pepakura Designer v1, you could only choose black fold lines, but they were too apparant, so that’s why I made lineless versions for my old papercraft models.

      But ever since Pepakura Designer v2, you can choose any colour you want for the fold lines, so the fold lines aren’t so apparant anymore if you blend them in with the colours, and I didn’t have to make two versions anymore (I always had to do the final fixes and finishing touches twice, because I always do those in Photoshop after unfolding the 3D models in Pepakura Designer… ;o)

      Sometimes the fold lines are very visible on the digital PDF version, but when you print them, they should be much less apparant on the actual printed version.

  8. I cant do strep 3 with part 3 help

    • I’m afraid it’s very difficult to try and help people with folding and glueing together papercraft parts of course because it is so difficult to explain any better than I already did with the step-by-step pictures in the instructions, but part 3 is probably much easier than you think! ;o)

      Paper models like these have lots of fold lines, but sometimes they’re difficult to see on the printed version: compare the printed part with the PDF version to see if you didn’t miss any fold lines that would prevent you from folding the part in the right shape.

      On the templates themselves, you can often find some extra help on how to assemble the parts: for part 3, there’s a black arrow guide showing you how to glue together one side of the part (after scoring and folding all the fold lines of course!)

      Once you’ve followed that arrow guide, all you have to do is fold and glue together the other side so that it looks like the picture in step 3 of the instructions, and that’s all there is to it!

      The picture in step 3 of the instructions is taken from the “back” of the part, maybe that’s what confused you…? But you can tell by the two glueing tabs with letters (which will glue to parts 1 and 2 in step 4 of the instructions as indicated again on the templates themselves).

      It often helps to look a bit further on in the instructions too so you can see more examples of what the part looks like when it’s glued to the other parts, but I hope this helps a bit!

      I’m afraid I can’t help everybody with all the parts like this of course, but just take your time (take a break if it becomes frustrating because you’ve been trying so long already!) and if you’re having trouble with some of the parts again, try “assembling” them without glue first (so you can still change it if it isn’t right) and keep comparing it with the step-by-step pictures in the instructions and against the other parts, and eventually you will get it!

      Good luck and have fun building!

      • can you please make a version with the black lines?

        • The version with blended lines you can download here is the only version I made of him. If you’re having trouble seeing the fold lines on the printed version, make sure to use the PDF version on your computer screen as reference. That way, you can zoom in and/or change the brightness of your screen if you still can’t see the lines.

          • ok, but, is there a way to change the brightness of the folds and still print it with the darkened lines?

            • I’ve made the templates especially so the lines would blend in with the colours of the parts on the printed versions, and although I’ve made them into PDF files, the templates are actually just image files.

              You can open the PDf files with graphics programs like Photoshop, or Gimp, or similar programs, and change the brightness and contrast of the templates/images, but the fold lines are “baked in” with the parts, so you can’t easily tell the software to only darken the fold lines…

              You’d have to manually trace the fold lines if you’d want to do that to print a “clean” version to build with easily visible lines.

              Or you could make try and change the brightness and contrast of the entire sheets very high, so that the lines would be very visible, but the colours would also be very off. Then you could use those sheets not to build the model, but as reference to see where the fold lines are on the version with very poorly visible fold lines that you would build instead.

              So I’m afraid there’s no easy way, sorry…! :o(

              • ok, after you print it, do you recommend a certain tool to retrace the lines?

                • If you want to use a graphics program to make the lines easier to see, you have to do it *before* your print the parts of course, by opening the digital part sheets in the graphics software that you choose, editing the lines in the software, saving it as a new image, and *then* printing it with the edited lines…!

                  There are many different graphics programs, like Photoshop (which is very expensive) or Gimp (which you can download and use for free) and many others, and most programs will have simple “line” tools that let you pick two points and between those points a line will be drawn.

                  So by “drawing” clearly visible lines over the very poorly visible, existing lines, you can make your own version of the paper model with new, clearly visible fold lines. Doublechek to make sure you don’t forget any lines, then save the new image with the new lines, and then you can print it to have a paper model with clearly visible fold lines that you made yourself! ;o)

                  It can be very intimidating to do something like this if you never really used a graphics program, and I’m afraid I can’t really help with that… If you want to use this method of re-drawing (“tracing”) the existing fold lines with clearer lines, you really have to learn some basic image editing skills…

                  For all the popular software (and for not so popular software too ;o) you can find many tutorials and forums that explain exactly those basic things though, and by reading through them and with some practice, you can teach yourself those basic skills very easily, while for for me, it would be very difficult and timeconsuming to try and explain it all here, sorry… :o(

  9. can youz please help me i cant get from step 28 to 29 because of the front hair:(?
    please contact me

    • Most importantly, make sure both the head and the hair are folded and assembled the correct way; examine the pictures in the instructions, and if you see a difference with your build, try to see why that is.

      Make sure you didn’t accidentally folded one of the parts the wrong way (mountain fold instead of a valley fold for example) and that you didn’t miss one of the fold lines (sometimes the fold lines are difficult to see on the printed version, so check against the PDF version on your computer if you’re not sure).

      Next, try to imagine how the two head and the hair should fit together; all the edges and glueing tabs on the hair should correspond with edges and glueing tabs on the head of course: if you think you got it, try it without glue first to see if you’re right.

      There are some tricky parts around the ears, but if you are happy that you found the right way that the head and hair should fit together, start applying some glue on the glueing tabs.

      Then carefully put the two parts together, making sure to “hook” all the glueing tabs underneath the correct edges.

      To make sure the head and hair stick together, try to “press” all the edges and glueing tabs together one by one; use the hole of the neck so you can stick your finger (or a tool like a toothpick or the back end of a spoon) inside the head, so you can apply counterpressure from inside the head.

      If it’s still to difficult to reach all the nooks and crannies from inside the head with your finger or a tool, you can also make an extra hole on the flat surfaces of part 27 (the top of the hair); that part will get covered up by Link’s hat, so as long as you don’t make the hole *too* big, you won’t see it when paper Link is done.

      That’s really all the help I can give, I’m afraid; the most important thing is to figure out which glueing tabs should connect to which edge, and once you’ve found that out, be patient and take your time to “press” them together using the hole for the neck to apply counterpressure from inside the head.

      I hope you can do it, good luck and have fun!

  10. Hello,

    It’s my first try, I’ve just discovered your papercrafts. It’s really exciting and your step to step is really helpful for a beginner like me.

    I’m stuck at the step 9. I try to glue the part 8 on the part 7. It seems very complicated because I don’t have any hole to reach the inside of the boot.
    Then the 8th part is not glued very well…

    An advice maybe ?

    Thank’s a lot for your work !

    • In many cases, you can use the “pressure” from the glueing tabs to your advantage (especially if you use thicker paper, because the “pressure” is bigger).

      If you fold the glueing tabs outwards a bit like a valley fold (even if they should logically be folded inwards like a mountain fold) then they will push against themselves against the inside of the part that you are trying to glue onto it.

      It’s hard to explain in words, but I hope you can understand what I mean! ;o)

      If you build it very carefully, often this pressure is enough to glue the pieces together, so you don’t have to reach inside.

      But sometimes the pressure from the flaps alone is just not enough, so really I agree: when it comes to building paper models, it’s always easiest if you do have a hole so you can reach inside (with your fingers, or a tool like a toothpick if the hole is not big enough ;o)

      Although in the instructions I showed it as just 1 step, in this case, the best thing to do is to glue together part 8 in two steps, leaving the top part (the pentagonal, five-sided flap) of part 8 open until you’ve glued it to part 7.

      Then you still have a hole on top, until part 8 is glued to part 7 and then you can close the top flap.

      If you’ve already glued down the top flap of part 8 before glueing it to part 7, you can either:
      Very carefully try to pry it apart (but if you’re not *very* careful, maybe you will damage the piece; you can always print another copy of course, but then it will cost you a new sheet of paper…)
      – Carefully cut a small hole in the top flap of part 8 yourself (leave some paper around the edges though, to which you can glue on the legs later on which will cover up the hole you made, so you won’t see it).

      So these are some tips that I hope will help you; but the most important tip is to take your time and come up with your own solution I think. The more paper models you build, the better you get at it and you will find out your own techniques! ;o)

      Try to plan ahead by looking at the parts and the instructions and seeing how one part should be glued together to the next piece. Sometimes it’s easier to leave one piece open until you’ve glued it to the rest of the model, or maybe it’s easier if you even do it in a different order than I did? ;o)

      Good luck and have fun building!

      • Thanks for your answer.
        In fact, my problem was to close the top of the part 8 :D

        I chose an alternative to close the 8th part: I leave foot open on the bottom and closed it at the end. In this way I can “easily” close the top of the part 8 and I have one more hole when building the part 6 and 7.
        And bottom of foot is more easy to close than top of part 8 :p

        Thanks for advises and sorry for my english ;)

        Here are some pictures of my work. (remember, it’s my first time :) ).



        Colmea

        • I think the solution you came up with is a very good one! ;o)

          Link is not very big, so sometimes it’s a bit fiddly to shape and glue together the parts, but your pictures look great so far (I wouldn’t have guessed it was only your first time if you hadn’t told me! ;o)

          Your paper Link looks really good so far, so keep it up and take your time and have fun building!

  11. Everything was going fine until I got to the hair… Any tips?

    • I can’t seem to get it on the head.

    • I’m afraid there’s not much more I can tell you other than to take your time, and keep trying…!

      Keep looking at the instructions each step if you’re having trouble to see if the way you glued everything together still looks the same as in the pictures.

      Make sure you folded and assembled the hair the right way: especially on the printed version, the fold lines can be hard to see, so check with the PDF file on your computer and zoom in, change the brightness of your screen or whatever you have to do to see if you didn’t miss any fold lines and folded them the right way (mountain or valley fold).

      Make sure you assembled the parts properly: parts 28 and 30 need to be almost folded double on themselves as indicated by the arrow guides on the templates to get it to look like the pictures in step25 of the instructions, and parts 29 and 31 need to be made into two thin, sharp pyramid-like shapes.

      Follow the arrow guides and the pictures in the instructions to glue the separate parts together, and if you’re not sure, try it without glue first until you get it right.

      After you’ve done the hair, try holding it against the top of the head without glue first to see where which glueing tab needs to be glued to first.

      There’s only one hole (the neck at the bottom of the head) where you can use a toothpick to “poke” inside the head so you can push the pieces of the hair around a bit from the inside to get them in the right place.

      This step can be very fiddly if the hair doesn’t have the (nearly) right shape already, so be sure to thoroughly fold and pre-shape all the pieces of the hair as good as you can so they already pretty much almost fit the head.

      You can also cut a hole in part 27 so you have a second hole so you can also reach the inside of the head and hair with a toothpick from the top and so you can see inside to see what you’re doing (part 27 will be covered up by the cap later on, so the extra hole it won’t show.

      Maybe that makes things a little easier, but like I said, the most important thing is to take your time, make sure everything is folded and glued together properly and keep trying!

      If you’re getting really frustrated, leave paper Link alone for a while and keep the parts in a safe place so you can continue when you feel like it again.

      Good luck and have fun!

  12. I was wondering if you are ever going to make a Ganondorf from twilight Princess?

  13. It wont let me download it

    • The parts and instructions are both in PDF format, so make sure you have a PDF reader installed on your system.

      Most computers will already have Adobe Reader installed, but if your computer doesn’t have a PDF reader yet, you can download it here: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html or you can choose a different one of course.

      Make sure you have the latest version of the PDF reader of your choice, and then when you click the parts and instructions links, the PDF files will usually open right there in your browser window. Then you can save them from the “File -> Save as…” menu, or the “Save” button on your PDF reader.

      Alternatively, you can also try right-clicking the parts and instructions link, and then choose the “Save as…” option from the context menu that pops up to save the files directly to your computer without previewing them first.

      Once you’ve downloaded the files, you an open them with a PDF reader just like any other files.

      If you were having trouble before, check to see if you can open and download PDF files from other websites. Before trying again from my papercraft webpage, try clearing your temporary internet cache and temporary internet files, so your browser loads the newest version of my papercraft websites.

      I hope this solves the problem you’re having! If you keep having trouble, try a different computer at a friend’s house, or at school/work; the files are there and the links are working correctly, so you should be able to download them without problems if your internet browser and PDF reader are working correctly.

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