Final Fantasy VII Yuffie

146007 Yuffie (20-10-2013)
from: Final Fantasy VII video game / size: ± 24 cm

parts (1,19 MB PDF file)
instructions (2,34 MB PDF file)

Google Photos

About ninjatoes

I love papercraft - so I made my own for you to download, print and build! :o)

Posted on October 20, 2013, in Final Fantasy, Final Fantasy VII and tagged , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. 6 Comments.

  1. I want to make a Yuffie for my Vincent, and this one is great. What paper size is this PDF?

    • Hello! All my papercrafts are made to fit on ISO A4 paper, which is 21.0 cm wide and 29.7 cm tall (about 8.3 x 11.7 inches). But even then, when you account for printing margins, on my own printer for example the sheets actually print at 97% (the approximate built size mentioned for the papercrafts are based on this 97%, like Yuffie ended up being about 24 cm (about 9.4 inches) tall ;o)

      If you print it on US Letter paper for example (which is about 8.5 x 11 inches), you’ll understand that US Letter paper is a little shorter than the 11.7 inch tall A4 paper, so the papercraft will be scaled a little smaller. This just means the parts and the final papercraft would be a little smaller too, but it will still fit together just fine.

      Just make sure the width and height of each page for the papercraft are scaled the same way (otherwise the parts’ shapes will be distorted and then the parts won’t fit anymore of course… ;o)

      • I see! I wound up rearranging the pages’ contents so they would fit on letter-sized paper at 100% size. I suppose that wasn’t strictly necessary.
        Thank you for answering the question!

        I want to build the entire FF7 party, but Vincent and your Yuffie are the only ones I can find. I can’t pretend I’m skilled enough to try and design my own. Still, I vaguely remember seeing a tutorial for examining the model files from within FFIX. Could that work for VII, even with the difficulty related to the battle models?

        • It’s more work, but if you can rearrange the pages that can work even better of course I think! :o)

          Like you say, you can do it so you don’t have to worry about not having the same paper size and making sure none of the parts overlaps the printing margins, or sometimes you can even rearrange the parts a bit more effectively and save a sheet of paper to print (I usually try to put the parts together the way they fit together, but that can often waste a bit of the paper… :o)

          I don’t really know which FF7 characters you could already find as papercraft at this point in time? There used to be quite a few papercrafters making FF papercrafts, but a lot of them are gone now unfortunately, and I think most of them like to make characters from more modern FF games…

          I actually did a FF9 extraction tutorial myself when I made a papercraft Beatrix from that game (I found out myself long ago from lots of FF fan forums which you could still find I think and it still works):

          But unfortunately, pretty much every FF game has its own game data compression methods and filetypes, so the same method won’t work for FF7… I will try to explain shortly how I did it for FF7 based on notes I made, but I hope you will understand that I really can’t really make a more neat tutorial like for FF9 at the moment…

          – Note 1: the version I used to extract the Yuffie 3D model is the actual game model from the old PC CD-ROM version. The tools I mention don’t work with the PlayStation version (maybe there are tools for that too, but I don’t know). I *think* the Steam version: is pretty much just a port of the old PC CD-ROM version, but please don’t be mad at me if you try it and it turns out the game files of the Steam version don’t work with these tools…!
          – Step 1 is to install the game, this will put the archive files (file extension .lgp) on your computer. The more detailed battlefield models are in the battle.lgp archive, summons are in magic.lgp and the simplistic field models you see when you’re running around the world are in the char.lgp archive.
          – Step 2 is to unpack the archives into the separate files they have inside them. To do this, I used a tool called Unmass 0.92 which you can download from Mirex who made it:
          – If you unpack an entire .lgp archive, you will get hundreds of files making the next step very slow because those hundreds of files will have to be loaded in another program. So it smarter to only “unmass” the few files for the character you want. To know which files those are, you can look it up in some lists, like this one from ALhexx:
          – Do make sure you get all the files belonging to one model: in the files you Unmass from the battle.lgp archive for example, the filenames will have 4 letters. The first two letters will tell you if they’re monster models (aa.. – of..), battle arena’s (og.. – rr..) or player models (rs.. – sm..); each character will have their own set of 2 starting letters. Make sure you get the entire set for each character, you can tell by the last two letters: ..aa is for skeleton information, – are textures (although you will see there are not many textures except for the faces; most bodyparts you will just need to give a solid color), – ..cj are the actual bodyparts, – are player weapons (I made a note about .p files here, I’m not sure what that meant right now, sorry but if you try it maybe you’ll understand?) ..da are animation files and ..ab is an unknow type but unmass it with the rest anyway ;o)
          – Mirex explained the structure here: I hope you’ll understand it betetr if you read it, even if it looks a bit complicated the first time.
          – Once you unpacked the right files from the .lgp archives, you can use Biturn (also made by Mirex and you can download it from the same page) to view and extract the 3D models.
          – Note 2: I used the stable Biturn 0.87 version, because on the site it says that the newer 0.88 version has problems with FF7 skeletons (meaning the animations/poses can be wrong).
          – Open the unmassed folder you made with the Unmass tool in Biturn (this loading is which will be *really* slow if you unmassed *a lot* of files instead of just the few for the character you want)
          – Now if you select the skeleton information for the character you want (the ..aa file) it should bind all the bodyparts, textures and animation together if you didn’t forget to unmass any of them for that character and you can see a 3D view of it in the preview window in Biturn. With the arrows you play and pause the animations on a nice pose for the papercraft.
          – When you’re happy, you can choose a Destination format from the drop down box (I like to use .3ds in this case, because most 3D programs can open it), choose a save destination and filename, and then click convert to save the 3D model and any texture files (remember most body parts don’t really have textures, just colors) in more common filetypes that you can use on your computer.

          Now you have the 3D game model, but unfortunately, you’ll see that you’re still far from making it into a papercraft… Most parts are not even connected properly, and to make it like this, will create a lot of small, difficult pieces. You will also need to fix the textures (in this case that’s not very difficult, because like I said most bodyparts don’t actually have textures that need to be applied in a very specific way, you just have to give them the correct color ;o)

          The most work will be to remodel the 3D model so that the bodyparts will fit together without very difficult pieces… I can’t really tell you how to do that, because it really a personal opinion and choice what is the “best” way and how far you want to go with that (you can completely redo the model, or not). This means you will need a 3D program (you can use free ones, most of them can open .3dsw files) and some basic 3D skills (just moving, copying, selecting, connecting, applying colors etc.)

          I looked up the blogposts from when I made Yuffie:

          And although it’s not really a tutorial, you can see the things I encountered and changed a bit to give you an idea. But really the only way to learn how to edit a 3D model and what makes a “good” papercraft according to you is practice! :o)

          Once you have a good 3D model for papercraft, you can use a tool called Pepakura Designer ( to unfold it into 2D pieces. You can try it out for free, but for complex models it’s very useful if you can save in between of course so you can continue working later. To enable saving though, you will have to buy a registration key. You can try it out (unfold and print your papercraft) for free first though to see if you like the program.

          I like to do some final fixes and finishing touches for the final templates in Photoshop, but if you made a good 3D model to unfold in Pepakura Designer, you can also print it directly from Pepakura Designer and you don’t need to do that step.

          Whew! This turned into a very long message, and I understand that you may be a bit overwhelmed of all the steps and information, but I hope you will understand it better if you try out the tools yourself. I hope I didn’t make any mistakes when explaining everything from memory and a few notes that I made, but if you try to follow the steps, a lot of things that I explained very awkwardly I think will be very easy if you are actually working with the files and tools. ;o)

          Have fun!

          • The blocky little field models are everywhere. What I’m really interested in is the fancier battle models, and I’ve heard those are difficult to mess with.

            So thank you, wow! I didn’t expect such an in-depth explanation. That’s really helpful. I don’t know if I’m brave enough to attempt something like this yet, but this is a good place to start.

  1. Pingback: CraftCrave | Blog | Free Papercraft Items (large): Monday, 21 Oct 2013

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